Frequently Asked Questions
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Is it Georgian?
Do I need a chimney breast?
Can I use your ceiling roses with plug in fittings?
How do I cut the coving and fill any gaps?
How to work out how much flooring you will need?
How do I stick the flooring down and how thick is it?
What do I paint the plaster with?
What do I use to stick the fireplaces and overmantels in place?
Can I make the columns longer or shorter?
What do I use for a hearth slab?
How do I fit the niches?
Do the doorcase sets fit most doors?
How do I get my brick and stone wall effects in the garden boxes?
What are the dates and characteristics of the Architectural Periods you refer to?
Is it Georgian?
Many collectors enjoy decorating their houses in the Georgian style. Remember this covers at least 4 'Georges'. My web site has been arranged to give the collector a suggestion of architectural periods as well as items. It is always best to get your own reference. Remember it is your house and you can do what you like with it.
Do I need a chimney breast?
If you are using a brickback, brickback-grate or an insert, yes you do. The fireplaces have been made to be as realistic as possible, so all the inserts fit behind the back of the fire-surround and need a recess. They are about 5or cant have a chimney breast you may be able to use a free standing grate as a few of my fire surrounds are slightly deeper and can be used with the flat-brick paper or you can paint the wall.
Can I use your ceiling roses with plug in fittings?
I have included a range of 'plug and go' light fittings which come with a large centre hole and the plug fitting. The fittings are in association with Small World Products Ltd. If you are using the ceiling roses with the small hole and brass hook, one method of fitting lights which is more permanent is to take lighting wires up through the floors above where possible, or solder the wires to tapes on the ceiling just behind the back of the ceiling rose. There is a groove on the underside of the rose, which can be extended to take the wires to the back. The roses can be glued with super glue, tile adhesive or if you wish to be able to remove it, use sticky wax. All ceiling roses come with a small brass wire hook, which can be used to hang light fittings from if you wish.
How do I cut the coving and fill gaps?
Start by making a mark on the coving on the side which will stick to the ceiling. Make sure this ALWAYS downwards when in the mitre block. To get the angles correct, look at the coving in the mitre block and imagine you are looking UP at the ceiling and mark the angle with pencil on the cornice. Check twice to make sure, and offer it up to the dolls house ceiling to triple check!
The plaster I use is very hard so that it doesn't crumble like softer plasters. Use a very sharp fine tooth saw, hacksaw, junior or 'grown up' or a hobby saw with a clean mitre block. Let the weight of the saw cut through and make sure that you are holding the part of the moulding you want to keep. One method which can work well is to dip the end you wish to cut in water for a few seconds, to wet it through, but it's not really neccesary. There is sometimes a difference in the depth of casting which can be accommodated by using a thickness of tile adhesive so the ends line up better.
If there are any chips, you can fill these and any joins with cellulose filler when the coving is in place. Cellulose filler is a domestic wall crack-filling product. It sometimes comes pre-mixed so is ready to use. I prefer to use the powder form as it comes in handy for other projects. Mix a teaspoon of powder with a little water in a small container. It should be the consistency of thick cream. Use a small piece of plastic to push it into the join. Wipe of the excess with the point slightly wet artists paint brush.
If you want to pick out patterns in the coving, cut it to size, prime and paint it before you stick it in place. If you require I will send you a sample piece of coving to practise on. Simply contact me to arrange this.
How to work out how much flooring you will need?
Your will need a calculator unless your are really good at sums!, I need a calculator, it's quicker. Multiply the width and the length of your floor either in inches or centimeters. This will give you a number in square inches or square cm.
eg. your floor is 12" X 15" , that is 180 square inches.
Choose the flooring you'd like and do the same calculation for one sheet, the dimensions are on the item page.
eg TWQ, 7 1/4" (7.25") x 10 1/4" (10.25"), that comes to nearly 75 square inches.
The decimal nature of a calculator means you'll have to change fractions into decimals.
1/4" = .25
1/2" =.5
3/4" = .75
Next take the floor size, in inches for this example, 180 and divide it by the sheet size, 75. The answer will be 2.4. So you will need 2 1/2 or 3 sheets.
I can do 1/2 sheets for most of the flooring so e-mail me if you want half sheets.
How do I stick the flooring down and how thick is it?
The flooring is no more than 1/8" thick (3mm). Make sure your doors will open over it. If you need to take a bit of the bottom of the door this can be done by patiently opening and closing the door on a piece of sandpaper until it is the right height. All flooring is cast from plaster and can be scored with a craft knife then broken along the score line. The next thing to do is to cut the scrim backing at the cut with a sharp knife. When your flooring is cut to fit, stick it in place with a credit card thickness of either P.V.A. glue or tile adhesive. When this is dry, the floor is ready to be varnished if you wish or just grouted with the grout supplied. Full instructions are in the flooring packet. One delighted customer came to see me at an exhibition saying that it had taken her a year to pluck up courage to lay the flooring. After she had done it she didn't know why she had been so worried. " It was so easy! And it looks wonderful".
What do I paint the plaster with?
Give the item a base coat of acrylic paint household silk-vinyl emulsion. This gives it a smooth non-porous surface to use any other type of paint. I prefer water-based paints, like acrylic or emulsion paint but you have to work quite fast. Enamels paints can be painted over a silk vinyl primer. Oil based paints can be used sucessfully but need an oil based primer. If you want to practice an effect try it on the back of the moulding or ask me for a sample of plaster to experiment on.
What do I use to stick the fireplaces and overmantels in place?
Either super glue or tile adhesive for a permanent fixing, or a fair amount of sticky wax if you want to be able to remove the casting. N.B. If you are moving the Dolls House check that the castings are secure. I have found that sticky wax or grip wax can loosen over a period of time.
Can I make the columns longer or shorter?
I'm afraid that I cannot stretch or shrink my moulds! Columns are cast in three parts and the shaft can be cut by dipping in water for a few seconds and then using a fine tooth saw gently to cut through. If you want to make the column longer I can supply extra shaft on request, or column plinths can be used to get extra height. ie. CP1, CP2, CP3, CP4, CP5, CP6, CP7, CP8. The same applies to some pilasters but the half columns are cast in one piece and require more cutting. Use pilaster bases, PB2, PB3, PB4 to extend pilasters and half columns.
What do I use for a hearth slab?
Please ask if you'd like me to make you a wooden hearth slab to a particular size and paint finish. I can suggest that a satisfactory slab can be made with thin card painted grey for a slate slab or you can marble or paint it to suit your room decoration. Maybe even ceramic tiles with a wooden border. The hearth stone should not be too proud or the dolls might trip over it!
How do I fit the niches?
The niches need a space behind them of about 1" (25mm). Draw round the back of the niche to make a template - cardboard is best. Use this template to cut the opening for the niche in a false wall or the back of the house. Then glue in place.
Do the doorcase sets fit most doors?
Yes, most imported doors are made standard size. This is 7 3/16" high (183mm), 3 7/16" wide (87mm). The architrave that is supplied with the set is mitred and fits on top of the doors' wooden architrave. If you have a door of a different size I can see if I can alter or swap the mouldings around to fit your needs.
How do I get my brick and stone wall effects in the garden boxes?
Cellulose filler, P.V.A. paint to colour mixed together, plastered on then scraped off to make "bricks" or "stones". Then more paint effect to distress the wall. Not forgetting a lot of patience.
What are the dates of the Architectural Periods you refer to?
TUDOR & JACOBEAN 1485-1625
A
This era marks the turning point in domestic architecture. A change from medieval to more stylish classisised decoration.
BAROQUE 1625-1714
Beginning of the use of the classical orders in an appropriate manner. The theory of DECORUM, which means approprietness was established. Ornament that is used in one style of building should not be used elsewhere. For example, grand architectural features such as profusely decorated arches could be used for Kings but not for wealthy Lords.
EARLY GEORGIAN ~ BAROQUE 1714-1765
This period reflects the influence of the Italian architect Palladio (1508-80). One notes the symmetry and regularity of fenestration of ancient Roman architecture in the grandest houses. This style is reflected in the interiors. Leading architect were Colen Campbell and William Kent. There was also a gothic revival at the end of this period.
LATE GEORGIAN
1765- 1811
This period sees the application of early Georgian architecture to domestic buildings of all kinds.We see the origin of building "facades" in order to sell houses. The circus and Royal Crescent in Bath are typical. The introduction of Coade stone which was an artificial stone that could be cast therefore producing cheap "carvings" Leading architects were Robert and James Adam and Sir William Chambers.
REGENCY & EARLY C19TH 1811-1837
This is the period which George, Prince of Wales was Regent to his mad father, George the third, his own reign and that of William the fourth. This period sees longer windows with rich decoration in stucco and ironwork. Interiors had a striking emphasis on architectural elements as well as a certain flashiness in some of the grander houses. Fashionable architects were Sir John Soane andJohn Nash.
VICTORIAN 1837-1901
The Victorian style grew out of revivals from the past, The mock gothic style developed out of a romantic fantasy but only for those who could afford it. Mass production allowed a spread throughout Britain of ornament which any builder could get use. Lots of fake plasterwork, cast iron and papier-mache.
GOTHIC REVIVAL C18th & C19th
The Gothic style was more apparent in the C19th, due to the writings of Sir Walter Scott and Tennyson. There was a fascination for medieval fantsy. Pugin, a theorist and designer encouraged patterns andcolour and used terracotta castings and polychromatic brickwork.
ARTS & CRAFTS 1866-1925
Inspired by English Medieval forms. Voysey was a leading influence.
ART NOUVEAU 1888-1905
A European movement based on organic motif.
EDWARDIAN 1901-1914
This period is said to be a debased Baroque with Dutch, Queen Anne and French influences. We see the invention of the lift, which led to the introduction of the mansion block.